Kebabs Could Lose Their Smoky Flavour, But Improve the City’s Air Quality


It is amidst this growing concern over the city’s air quality that the Lucknow Municipal Corporation decided to take action.

The initiative, coupled with TERI, targets to bring down the pollution from more than 20,000 eateries using coal or wood. The project will start with a total of 250 restaurants.

Even as the corporation is in the process of implementing the proposed switch from conventional charcoal tandoors for kitchen grills to gas and electric equipment in most of the hotels and restaurants, the idea has been met with some reluctance.

“The taste we get from cooking over coal is something that adds to the flavour of our tikkas, kebabs, naans, and other food items we serve,” Zubair from Tunday Kababi said. Tunday Kababi was ranked 12th on Taste Atlas’s list of the world’s most legendary restaurants in 2023.

Aakriti Singh, who’s been coming to the restaurant for years, added,

Another customer, Meena Fatima, feels that the switch could take away from the charm of dining out.

“If they cook on gas, the food will taste like something I can make at home. When I come out to eat kebabs, I want the full experience – taste, texture, and flavour that I can’t get from a gas stove.”

As Lucknow’s famous kebabs could change, vendors are also unsure of how to adapt. Restaurant operators will need to undertake the initial costs of installation as well as train their staff and give them time to adapt.

“The heat from the gas is different. It doesn’t spread the same way, and we’ll need to adjust our cooking process which can take some time,” Zubair added.

But many acknowledge that the long-term advantages could outweigh the challenges.

“The long-term benefits, including reduced pollution, better air quality, and potential cost savings on fuel is going to make this a worthwhile investment for the city’s future,” Singh said.

“I’ve grown up enjoying the flavours of Lucknow’s kebabs, and they hold a special place in my heart. However, I also care deeply about our health and the environment,” said Riddhi Malhotra, a working professional and resident of Lucknow.

She added,

For now, the city is pushing ahead with its efforts to curb pollution and improve air quality. The Lucknow Municipal Corporation is currently surveying food establishments to ensure compliance, and discussions are underway about potential alternatives that might preserve the traditional flavours while reducing harmful emissions.

Mirza Shaina Beg is a multimedia journalist based in Delhi. She reports on gender, health, environment, and culture.



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